I have a terrible weed infestation on my yard. Researching online, i came across “Organic Weed Control”. That sounded better than having to buy the chemicals to fix the problem. Hence, the results of my findings below.
This article is made up of content from each respective websites (links attached on topic headers). The sole purpose of posting them here is for my personal use as its easier to re-compose and reassess information during my turf battle. If you find this page by accident or was sent here by a link, just give credit where its due. Full information re: each topic is available on the provided link(s). Now, on with the show.
The Vinegar and Mulch Method
source: http://www.helium.com/items/1145548-organic-weed-control?page=2
A 2002 study by the United Stated Department of Agriculture (USDA) showed that a number of common weeds could be effectively controlled using vinegar with 5% to 20% acetic acid, which is contained in vinegar.
However, a lower concentration is less effective.Regular household vinegar usually has a 5% acetic acid concentration. While this works on some weeds, a greater concentration is sometimes necessary for more mature weeds. Greater concentrations (15%-30%) can be obtained by distilling and freeze evaporation. Please note however that solutions above 10% need careful handling since they are corrosive and may be damaging to surrounding plants as well as skin. While it’s true that vinegar will decrease the pH of your soil, you needn’t worry about this because the pH balance will go back to its original state within 48 hours.
Some gardeners add other ingredients to their vinegar solution to make its weed killing powers more effective. These include lemon, salt and dishwashing liquid. The following solution can be made by combining the following ingredients and they work just as well for killing weeds:
4 cups white vinegar
1/4 cup salt
2 teaspoons dishwashing liquid
Directions:
Mix ingredients together in a spray bottle and spray on the weeds. But be careful not to spray on your surrounding plants.
Salt can be used by itself, for instance on cracks on your driveway to kill grass and weeds but do not use it in places where you want plants to grow as salt is very caustic. And do not let it get into your soil either as it will make your soil inhabitable not only to weed but everything else.
If you feel that a vinegar solution is not your cup of tea then you may try mulching. Mulching is said to be an extremely effective method of organic weed control. It creates an additional surface layer for your soil which suppresses weeds by preventing light from reaching the seeds that are sprouting at soil level. The absence of sunlight stops the seedlings from becoming established, and most will die before they can reach surface. This method of weed control also has the added benefit of conserving moisture in the soil, keeping the soil at a uniform temperature, preventing soil erosion, and creating a more attractive garden appearance. Mulch will also gradually improve the soil as it decomposes over time. Spreading on a thick layer of mulch (consisting of grass clippings, bark or leaves and other organic plant material), throughout your garden will aid greatly in weed control.
By combining these methods you may keep your garden flourishing and weed free while preventing your surrounding environment from being contaminated by chemicals and harsh herbicides that can endanger your plants as well as your health.
Top Dress With Compost in Spring and Fall
source: http://organicgardening.about.com/od/lawns/a/OrganicLawn.htm
Regardless of what your soil test finds, every single lawn can benefit from a semiannual topdressing of compost. It will add trace minerals and some nutrition to your soil, which is always a good thing. Even more importantly, compost introduces beneficial microbes into the soil, which results in healthier soil that has better water retention rates. Also, earthworms love compost, and will tunnel through your soil to get to it, aerating your soil, adding fertility, and increasing worm populations.
So, how much should you add? A one-quarter inch layer of compost, raked evenly over your lawn, will accomplish all of these tasks without overwhelming your lawn. An easy way to figure out how much compost you’ll need is to remember that for each 100 square feet of lawn area, you’ll need one cubic foot (or .05 cubic yards) of compost. Simply measure your lawn area (total square footage = lawn length multiplied by lawn width) and divide by 100. Then, multiply that number by 1 (for cubic feet) or .05 (for cubic yards) and you’ll know how much compost you’ll need.
Mow High
source: http://organicgardening.about.com/od/lawns/a/OrganicLawn.htm
Mowing high, which is mowing at 2.5 to three inches tall, does several important things. First off, taller grass shades the soil, which helps prevent weed seeds from germinating. It also helps keep the soil moist and cool, so the lawn will require less water. Finally, mowing your grass high will increase its ability to photosynthesize. Each blade of grass soaks up the sunlight and converts that energy into food. The longer the blades of grass are, the more surface area there is to absorb sunlight.
Another beneficial mowing practice is to use a mulching mower, and leave your grass clippings right on the lawn. The clippings will shade and cool the soil while they decompose, and will give your lawn frequent, low doses of nitrogen at the same time.
Water Deeply and Infrequently
source: http://organicgardening.about.com/od/lawns/a/OrganicLawn.htm
People waste more water on lawns than anywhere else in the household. The fact of the matter is that lawn grasses need approximately one inch of water per week during the growing season. If it doesn’t come from rain, then you’ll need to supplement with a sprinkler. Lawns should dry out between waterings. The reason for this is twofold: first, a lawn that is watered frequently and never allowed to dry out only develops roots in the top inch or two of soil. These lawns are especially susceptible to droughts. The second reason is that while lawn grasses grow best when their roots extend deep into the soil, the vast majority of weeds are shallow-rooted. So, by watering frequently and not allowing the soil to dry out, you’re actually encouraging weeds.
The best way to ensure that your lawn is getting the proper amount of water is to place a rain gage on your lawn while you’re watering. Another good alternative is to place a cup or can out to catch the water, and then measure how deep it is every ten minutes or so until you reach one inch.
A note on watering: water early in the morning so your grass has a chance to dry out before evening. A damp lawn can lead to fungal issues, and that’s something we definitely don’t want to have to deal with.
The Corn Gluten Approach
source: http://www.eartheasy.com/article_corn_gluten.htm
One of the most important breakthroughs in organic lawn care has its roots in a fortunate accident by Iowa State University researcher Nick Christians. The natural herbicide that resulted from his research (made from corn gluten meal) is now patented, and is licensed for use in turf and home gardens as an alternative to weed and feed products.
Corn gluten meal is a powdery byproduct of the corn milling process. Used for years as a supplement in hog feed, this natural protein is very effective for lawns and gardens as a plant food as well as a weed supressor. Corn gluten meal products offer a non-toxic, yet effective alternative to traditional, chemical-based weed and feed products for weed control in gardens and lawns, paths and driveways.
Corn gluten meal for lawn and garden use comes in three forms:
- unprocessed – very fine, almost powdery in texture. Can be broadcast by hand, but for best results use a hand seeder. It will look like a layer of pollen on the soil. Must be applied directly on bare earth or around new plantings because it can’t work its way down through grass or mulch.
- granulated – easiest to apply using a spreader. Can also be mixed with water into a paste to use as a patch for localized weed supression. The patch will keep weeds from sprouting while the surrounding plants fill in.
- pelletized – can be broadcast by hand. This is an excellent treatment for lawns in spring and fall; a general application will add nutrients to your lawn while discouraging the growth of new weeds.
Among the weeds controlled with pre-emergent application of the product are crabgrass, dandelions, smart weed, redroot pigweed, purslane, lambsquarters, foxtail, and barnyard grass. The three forms of corn gluten meal described above are comparable in effectiveness.
Tips for corn gluten
- Coverage depends on which form of corn gluten you’re using, so read the package for accurate application. In general, however, corn gluten is applied at 20 – 40 lbs per 1000sq ft.
- Corn gluten will not work until wetted, so wet it down using a fine soft spray after applying.
- One application effectively supresses weeds for 4 – 6 weeks. Heavy soils, protracted rainy weather and hot spells may require monthly application.
- Effects are cumulative. Results improve with repeated use over time.
| Surprisingly, corn gluten products can be hard to find. Many garden centers will tell you they’ve never heard of it, while others have products on their shelves which are corn gluten based but use a product name, like “Safe n’ Simple” for example. Look in the “weed n’ feed” section.You can also shop online for corn gluten meal. | |||
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Corn gluten natural weed control All-natural pre-emergence weed control adds nitrogen to your beautiful organic lawn while preventing new weeds from sprouting!Apply in early spring, 3 – 5 weeks before weeds begin to sprout. Apply again in late fall.Price: $36.95 (20 lb bag, treats 1000 sq. ft.) more info, or to purchase |
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